ECU Reflash/Remap/Tuning FAQs

Q: What is Reflash?
A: Reflash, or Remap, or ECU Tuning are all one and the same thing. It is a process where we read the contents of your ECU, open it in with an editing software (like Photoshop) change some of the parameters and load it back into your vehicle.

Q: Why is it called reflash?
A: Inside your ECU is a physical memory chip, the small back rectangle (usually) with lots of legs like a centipede, and it uses the same technology as the popular USB flash drive that you have, hence the term reflash.

Q: Why is it called Remap?
A: When we read and download the contents of your ecu, the files contained inside are called maps, which control specific items of the engine, like sparkplug map, turbo boost map, timing map, etc etc. These look like excel sheets when opened up. Remapping is changing the values inside these excel sheets to get better performance.

This is an example of a map that we can edit once your ECU file has been read

Q: What is tunimg? Is it tune up?
A: Newsflash, all cars made after 2004 don’t require “tune up” any more, as there is nothing to tune or adjust beyond the change oil and sparkplugs. Tuning is the process of adjusting. Same way a guitar or piano is tuned, the tuner makes small adjustments to the strings and cords until he gets the note correctly. Car tuning is the same process but changing things like the amount of air, fuel, spark, boost etc etc instead of the tensions of strings and cords

Q: What’s a dyno?
A: Dyno is short for dynamometer, a big machine that measures power and torque of a vehicle. Think of it as treadmill for your car.

This is our dynamometer. The brand is Dynapack and its a hub dyno, meaning the dyno physically connects to the wheel hubs, ensuring 100% transfer of power

Q: What is dyno tuning?
A: Tuning while on a dyno.

Q: Why doesn’t _______________(insert manufacturer) do this from the start?
A: The answer for this can be many reasons, and here are some of the few. All automobiles made now are always over built and overspec-ed for their intended purpose. This is to make sure there is wide enough safety/reliability threshold to last years of use. There is also flexibility, like the Fortuner 3.0 and Prado 3.0, both cars have the same engine, same ECU, same transmission, but the Prado makes more power to be able to justify the higher price. Rather having two separate power systems, sharing a common power train architecture enables Toyota to easily tailor the power needed to their market segment. Another is because of the “arms-race” among manufacturers. When Toyota, first came out with the 3.0 Fortuner it has 150whp, quite high in the mid-2000s for a diesel. Then Mitsubishi came out with the Montero, which has 165whp, then Toyota came out with a more powerful 2.5L and 3.0L later in the life cylce but it still uses the same ecu. The hardware and software is cable of much more to “future proof” it against the competition by enabling manufacturers to be able to introduce an “upgraded” version down the line should the need arise.

Q: What is being changed when you reflash? Are you introducing new software?
A: When the ECU data has been downloaded, think of it as a notebook binder, same ones you used in college. There is a table of contents and pages inside. The whole notebook is downloaded, and the same notebook is uploaded, but the contents of some of the pages have been changed. Now new software is introduced, no new pages are added, the file structure itself is also the same, it’s just the numbers inside some of the files have been changed, say from 56.4 to 60.5.

Q: Do you have sample of a reflash?
A: Reflash isn’t a physical product that you can hold In your hand, much less see and touch. At the most you’re able to see is a laptop connected to your car’s OBD port.

Q: How do I know if it really makes power?
A: We have a dyno. Like the treadmill, it can calculate how much power your car makes by how much load is applied and how fast the wheels turn.

Q: How do I know your numbers are correct and you’re not just making it up?
A: First of, our dyno software doesn’t allow us to change values by manually entering them. The only way the dyno gives out is through the input of the car wheels spinning. It’s the same way with a weighing scale, it’s all locked in and you can’t change it. Secondly, its counterproductive for us to do so cause aside from fooling you, we’d be fooling ourselves, and in this day and age of the internet, posting fake numbers is easily called out by other people.

Q: Will this lead to more wear and tear of the engine?
A: No

Q: Huh? It makes more power but no additional wear? That sounds illogical?
A: Let me explain. Let’s use you the human as an example and beer. Say right now, you can drink 5 beers before you pass out drunk. After reflashing your brain, you can now drink 10 beers before passing out. But you won’t be drinking 10 beers all the time, majority you will have maybe 3 before you have tama and have had enough for the night. But on the rare occasion like your bro’s stag party, you can last with the rest of boys with your 10 beer limit instead of being a KJ after 5 beers. Same thing with the engine, we are raising the LIMIT to enable POTENTIAL performance. Like boost level in a diesel SUV, we raise it from 14-20psi. But that doesn’t mean you’ll be driving with 20 psi all the time, realistically if you take the total mileage of your car, only 1% or even less will be spent driving at maximum power. The other 99% is spent driving as your normally would, which has the usual maintenance and wear and tear even before you had a reflash.

Q: Will my fuel consumption be affected?
A: Yes, drive NORMALLY, and you will see 9-10% better mileage. Why? Because before you step on the pedal 20% to get 50hp, now you only step 10% to get that same 50hp. Less pedal pressing means less consumption. And herein lies the human conundrum, you’re tendency is to step on it MORE than your usual 20% and you do it more and more often, and more pedal means more consumption. So to answer the consumption question, it all depends on your right foot.

Q: Will the casa know it’s been reflashed?
A: No.

Q: Does it void warranty?
A: Also no. Remember the notebook analogy? It’s still the same notebook, from the table of contents to the number of pages, to the separators between pages, it’s still the same file. So when the casa plugs in their diagnostic machine, it will read everything exactly the same as stock
Q: Can you reflash it back to stock?
A: Yes P1000

Q: Does it have warranty? How long?
A: We mentioned that it’s software, and as long as the hardware can run it, then that’s the warranty. It’s like an app on your phone, when downloaded, it either works or it doesn’t. Same with the ecu files, it either works or it doesn’t from the get go. But let’s say, suddenly your touchscreen begins to malfunction, then obviously, you’re app won’t work correctly.

Q: Will it have a check engine light?
A: Check engine light are caused by sensors in the car reading wrongly. A car sensor normally operates within a 1-4v range, if for some reason, it suddenly sees 4.5v, a check engine light will appear, or the sensor itself is on the verge of failure, giving wrong readings because of wear and tear. When we reflash, we always assume that your car is working 100% correctly, we don’t know what the exact condition of the car is, what maintenance has been done, how it’s used, etc etc. Suffice to say that if a check engine light does come up, don’t panic. A check engine light can mean many things, and we have to know the exact error code to be able to find out how to solve it, I suggest you buy an OBD scanner in here in Lazada, scan the code and take a picture of it, then bring it back to the shop, so we can make a few adjustments to the values IF THAT IS THE CAUSE. Messaging “May check engine, ano problema” question will not get you any answers aside from “bring it to the shop”. Take note. Reflashing doesn’t cause check engine lights, sensors readings do, and it happens to completely stock vehicles.

Q: What cars can be reflashed?
A: As a general rule, cars after 2007 can be reflashed with either one or 2 methods, through the OBD port, or physically opening up the ECU and reading the data directly from the memory chip. So if you have a car older than 2007, the short answer is no, it can’t be done. For that we have Unichip.

Q: How long is the process?
A: If it’s through OBD port, 2-3 hours with the dyno included. Sometimes the file we get from the ecu is encrypted, and needs to be sent abroad to Europe for them to decode and then mailed back to us. So this adds either a few hours or a day to process.

Q:What if I have modifications like intake and exhaust?
A: We take these things into consideration when we tune.

Q: What’s the maintenance for a reflash?
A: Same as your normal maintenance schedule of change oil and other consumables.

Q: Do I have to have it regularly reflashed?
A: Ideally once a year. Let’s use human analogy again. Normal you is slow and lazy, reflashed you is a more powerful ready-for-marathon you. And marathon you wants to keep in shape so you have general executive checkup once a year to make sure you are in peak condition. But you get older every year and obviously your peak performance now might not be the same as a year ago. Same with cars, and in that one year, filters may have been more clogged than usual, fuel pressure it’s as high, etc etc. Good thing we can buy new parts for cars, unlike humans.

Q: What power gains can I expect?
A: Each car is different and will depend on the engine. But here’s a rough ball park. 2.5-3.0L Diesel SUVs easily 40-60hp, 1.3L-1.8L gasoline cars 8-13hp more, turbo gasoline cars 30-50hp.

Q: I live/work near Metrowalk Pasig, do you have a dyno there?
A: Our main branch in Banawe has the dyno. You can leave your car in Metrowalk and we will take care of bringing it to the main branch, and bring it back since we are open up to 7pm in Metrowalk. The drive also serves as the road test to make sure everything works perfectly.

Q: How long does it take?
A: If he car is OBD Reflash compatible, 2-3 hours including the dyno. Certain cars need the ECU to be physically opened in order to access the data, this is particularly true for Hyundais and some older Toyota diesels, in which case we need 2 days as its not easy to open and trace the small connectors to read the data.

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One thought on “ECU Reflash/Remap/Tuning FAQs”

  1. There is a lot of semi-wrong or flat out incorrect info here. Allow me to clarify.

    The files downloaded from the ecu are not maps. They are binary files, usually read, writes, and transfers as hexadecimal. They have to be mapped out, a process initially done by hand to the file from the ecu, called a “calibration” or “strategy”, or just a bin file. Proprietary software like HP Tuners, Efi Live, etc. Read the binary data and save it, but also append extra data, like the memory locations and scaling of the maps, scalar, disable/enable bits etc. The tables you see need both the binary (the actual data) and a map (vehicle definition or whatever they want to call it) to display these tables, as they are an abstraction of the data in the binary.

    Now, the encryption part, yes… They do encrypted their files and the incumbent data attached, but the data on the ecu is not encrypted, and if you know how to get it off, it is pure binary data. Getting in there after it’s been flashed may prove difficult through changing the UDS securityaccess seed/key (unified diagnostic service, and protocol running over the CAN bus on modern vehicles), but it’s not encrypted. Though there are cases where the tables and bootloader are modified and the obfuscation method being unknown makes it hard to get the data off without pulling it via bdm off the flash chip on the board itself.

    As far as the reflash counter incrementing it depends on how you do it, and if you even flash the ecu… I know of other way to overlay a calibration over another node and unless the dealer looks for that they won’t know. But know that it’s not illegal to reflash your ecu, and it’s actually a standardized mandate with an sae and iso standards behind it (j2534, 15765, etc). If any dealer tells you that they are voiding your warranty by your flash counter being incremented, it’s bullshit. At least in the US.

    There is more but I think this makes a point and clarifies a few things stated in here.



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