How such a small part has a big impact on performance for the Toyota Fortuner

“Mahina hatak” “Walang lakas” are two phrases I hear a lot when people come to the shop. I usually separate these in two: the ones that think their car has no power and it’s just in the their heads and the ones that actually have something wrong with the car. The ratio is something like 30/70

Hence this is why we have a Dyno so that we can quantify how much power the car is making. Phrases like “hindi ganun takbo dati” doesn’t help. Obvious we have no before and after comparison so we wouldn’t know. With the Dyno we can see if the car is making the correct power or if the transmission is not transferring the power.

In the case of the Fortuner, a simple filter is often the cause of power loss, this little thing

This the manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor filter. And like every filter, this gets clogged with dirt. And when it gets clogged, the pressure that gets read by the MAP sensor gets smaller and smaller. So instead of 12psi, it’s only reading 7 or 8 psi, and thus the Ecu will take this input and output the amount of fuel commensurate to that pressure reading. Higher pressure means more fuel injected and thus more power, low pressure equals less fuel and obviously less power.

And the power loss isn’t drastic like malakas today and mahina tomorrow. It’s very very gradual over the span of months and years. And you won’t notice it in city traffic driving because at these low speeds, the engine isn’t making a lot of boost because the pedal you apply isn’t great also.

The most telling is that when you go on a long trip and you can’t seem to overtake that pesky tricycle in front or can’t climb the steep road even on full throttle.

And annoyingly enough, there will never be a check engine light warning you that something is wrong, because as far as the Ecu is concerned, everything is operating as it should and within parameters, with the sensor function and reading.

We’ve encountered many a Fortuner with this problem with casa maintenance records but no mention of this filter ever being replaced, all with the same complaint on why it has no power.

So this is the first thing we check before we do any tuning whatsoever and the way we do it is pretty low tech, simple take out the filter and blow into it, then we will know if it’s barado or not.

You should also get the original Toyota part and not the fake ones as we have the fake filters crack apart after boost goes through it.

Like this 3.0L Fortuner that made a baseline power of 145whp, not bad but the graph doesn’t look right, it’s too flat. Stock power graph should look like a hill with peak power at 3000-3500rpm. And as we suspected the boost is not correct also and so we replaced the filter and went from 145whp to 160whp without doing no nothing.

No with the boost correct and car making the correct power we now proceed to remap the ECU and the final output is a very impressive 201whp and 470 Nm of torque!

How NOT to modify a Vios

I get screenshots like this every so often from people wanting a second opinion on what to do with their cars, and a lot of these are dumb stupid ideas, like this guy.

Read his “recommendations” and let it sink in, as I explain the absurdity of what he’s peddling.

It’s actually pretty smart, starting off with a disclaimer, that it’s ideal to get a tune, which gives him blanket coverage for when people realize on why it doesn’t work.

All bolt ons and no modifications needed. Dude a bolt on is already a modification. He doesn’t know the difference between the two.

He goes on to say that more can be done. Well duh of course, sky’s the limit as long as you have money. And yes you will notice a difference. More on that later.

Let’s go through his list of “bolt ons”

A bigger throttle body from a Corolla Altis. Bigger throttle bodies have been a performance staple ever since the days of carb engines but this is DEFINITELY NOT a bolt on, as shown by his second line, Port Matched Intake Manifold.

The Vios manifold is PLASTIC, in order for make the hole bigger, you need to grind away the plastic and relocate the mounting holes for the throttle body, how the hell is this a bolt on??? Bolt on means that the part is installed and taken off with just screws and bolts, no damaging or alteration of the original parts. FAIL

Headers and full exhaust. I’ve covered this extensively in my other post about the different header types, short and long tube, and unless he has access to a Dyno to prove that whatever he does makes power and not lose it, well you just have to take his work for it, promise.

Lightened crank pulley. Yes this works, yes this adds power, he never did state how much. I’ll tell you 2-3hp at most.

Change to bigger injectors. This is monumentally stupid. The stock injectors of the Vios are more than enough to make the air fuel ratio rich as hell, up to the 11:1 range. And you never want that kind of AF in a non turbo engine. The only difference you’ll feel with this is the frequent trips to the gas station because sobrang lakas sa gas.

Lower final drive. This doesn’t add any power but does add response. The question is, at what price? To install a final drive, the whole transmission needs to be taken apart, plus you will screw up your odometer reading, and for manual cars, more shifting as the car can coast less which results in once again Mas Malakas sa gas kasi laging sumisibat sa konting tapak. There’s a very good reason why final drive changes are only done for racing cars and not street cars.

For an in-depth explanation of pros and cons of changing the final drive, here’s Engineering Explained

And it’s always a compromise on what you have currently depending if you get a lower or higher final drive: more sibat means lower speed per gear and top speed and and crappier mileage. Better economy equals crappier acceleration in every gear, but higher top speed.

And have you guys seen the prices on a set of final drive gear and shaft?

Baka Ma-heart attack kayo at $540, that still doesn’t included the labor or the brains to have one installed.

For a dude that “offers” transmission rebuild services, he doesn’t know how to make an intake. Hmmmmm I smell bullshit and horseshit. So K&N must have been scamming people for almost half a century because they sell nothing but filters and intakes.

Then again, he did say tuning is always ideal 🤦‍♂️ That’s his get out of jail free card for any problems that will happen.

And all you have is his word that works, no pictures, no actual car, and more importantly NO DYNO chart.

So if this guy wants to prove me wrong, by all means bring it and I’ll Dyno it for free, and let the whole Vios and car community know you are a class A Bullshitter

Mitsubishi Lancer EX 1.6L Headers (correcting the mistake)

Another day another correction by us due to the stupidity and incompetence of another shop. The problem with these exhaust shops is that none of these morons know how an engine works. Watching the 4 stroke cycle in slow motion doesn’t make you an engineer, much less understand what firing order is or air fuel ratio.

Such is the misfortune of this Lancer EX who has the WRONG header design installed on his car. Note to exhaust shop, you’re suppose to pair 1-4 and 2-3 if you’re going to create a 4-2-1 header, NOT 1-2 and 3-4.

Not that is matters because the Lancer EX MUST have a 4-1 header design in order for the oxygen sensor to work and read properly. Splitting and pairing the exhaust the wrong way cause wrong readings and sure enough, when we put it on the Dyno, the air fuel ratio is in the 16:1 region, way too lean and also why it keeps throwing a check engine.

Left to right: Stock header, Dumb exhaust header, Hotpipes headers

Another mistake of the Dumb exhaust header is the lack of a flexible section to isolate engine vibration from the chassis, which led to the muffler vibrating wildly, Never mind that 2 of the 3 exhaust hangers are also missing.

On top of all, it’s just our luck that the ECU stopped communicating with the ETACS body module, no doubt due to the other shop not removing the battery while welding the muffler.

So after fixing the ECU, we asked for the stock exhaust components back, header, muffler, midpipe so that it will make trouble shooting easier. Once everything was up and running, we proceeded to do a baseline reading with the stock headers and exhaust, and it got us 110whp, which is the correct power figure for the 1.6L Lancer MT.

For shits and giggles, we put back Dumb exhaust’s header and dynoed again. Lo and behold! A big fat ZERO HORSEPOWER gain.

I really have no words. Ok maybe I do and they are F%#^ S%#* A$$¥}+?$ M@%@^

Putting our Hotpipes headers and what do you know? Instant 10hp gain without doing no nothing!

Well his aim was to have the car tuned because Dumb exhaust told him to do so in order to get rid of the check engine light.

Uh news flash asshole, the engine light is because of tuning, it’s because your work is a piece of dog shit.

So tune with Unichip we did and final power output is 140whp, up from 110whp stock.

Thin red line – Dumb Exhaust header

Thick red line – Stock header

Purple line – Hotpipes headers

Dark blue line – Unichip tuning

So yes, 30hp gain, no check engine, correct air fuel ratio and Hindi Malakas sa gas. All the things you want in a car.


How my FB Page got hacked and how I got it back

Our Facebook overloards have us literally by the balls, neck and soul, such that having your account hacked is enough to trigger an emotional breakdown and “loss of followers” is worse than death. Oh good grief, get over it. Yes I was distraught for a few days but figured that I’d pull myself together and just make a new page, never mind that the old page had 120,000+ likes. I figured I’d start fresh and just weed out all the annoying good for nothing and useless likes from people say, in Afghanistan who will never ever buy anything from me anyway.

Here’s what I deduced what had happened. You can brute force attack Facebook login in and password. All the hacker has to do is see who the page owner/admin is, hack that account, add himself as admin, and then kick out or demote the others to Analyst. I can still see the likes and posts but have no access to post and most important of all, the messages that people send me. From what I gather, these assholes are Bangladeshi/Indian/Pakistani (they’re all the same smelly ilk) and what they do is target pages with a lot of likes, take it over and upload random interesting videos where they can enroll in FB videos and monetize them. Notice how videos in FB have ads in the middle? Yep thats how they earn money.

I also found out that a rival shop had the same thing happen to his FB page with over 300k+ likes and was also hacked and taken over, and ransom was demanded to give it back, which he paid to the tune of P500,000 DAMN!

I figured these smelly Indian assholes can fuck themselves should they come and ask for ransom. I’d rather spend the half a million promoting in FB. So this went on for around 3 months and I’ve learned to live with it. Still no ransom.

I don’t know if it was coinsidence or fate but a week or so ago, a nice customer forwarded me a page with the name AccountRecoveryPH. They helped recover San Miguel Basketball teams FB page, and the testimonials do seem legit. Hey nothing to lose by contacting them. Also at around this time, the random video posts have stopped from the other page. As in nada, nothing. People are still contiuning to like the old page but its from people like Sandeep, Kumar, prakash, Ranjit, the 5-6 kind I don’t like and don’t need.

A few minutes after contacting the page, I got a reply. At this point, I’m a bit wary because one of the first things I did was snoop around the internet looking for hacker to hack back my page and spend P50,000 on this failed attempt. Ok the Accounts Recovery guy is local, and asked for whose the current page admin, etc etc.

I send him screen shots of what I have and he asked to access my GMAIL, to which I said, I don’t know password, and asked why does he need it. He said its just for monitoring as we need to submit an Infringment of IP report to FB. So I said, just tell me what to write and where to send it. Also the attachments are the current admin, first post when it was hacked. You’re supposed to find this page and report it there.

With the following info:

Your name (name and surname) :
Your job responsibility: 
Mailing address:
Phone number:
Name of the rights owner:
Please provide links (URLs) leading directly to the specific content you are reporting.
Please describe your copyrighted work.
Where can we see an authorized example of your work? 

Ok, so far so good. No mention of money or downpayment. So I forwarded him all the answers and he made the complaint and put my email, and told me to wait for reply. At this point, I’m thinking, no way this could work. I’ve done this before and reported it to FB several times to no avail.

Much to my surprise, a few hours later, FB had a reply.

The email address it came from is

This fucking email address is nowhere to be found on FBs site itself and googling it just turns up support request concerns that are never answered asking if its legit or not. You would thing, that having your customers reach you easy would be a top priority especially PAYING CUSTOMERS who spend on ads. so Fuck you Zuckerberg.

Any how, the dude then sent me a reply to past on the reply email.

Well he definitely makes me sound nicer, a lot nicer. Okay, at least its going somewhere. So more wait and see.

24 hours past and nothing,


Great, being bounced around different departments, how typical corporate BS.

Another day has passed and nothing.

And then last night.

The Spanish Subject is definitely weird but the body is English. I read it and check the links, and they seem to be legit with prefixes. I went to my Pages Manager and saw that the message icon is still grayed out. Oh well, no point in hoping too soon if at all. Hmm what if I closed the app first? SO close I did and when I opened it again, BAMMMMMMM over 400 unread messages and over 1000 unread notifications! HOLY SHIT IT WORKED! And in the interim 3 months that it was under the hacker’s control? These fuckers actually added 90,000 new likes, granted they are also from the curry munching club but hey, 209,000 likes isn’t bad at all.

So thank you very much to Pinoy Accounts Recovery Team for their help.

As for the subject of payment, they work on a “kayo na bahala sir magkano”

needless to say I gave them payment with 4 zeros attached to the end.

Subaru GC Wagon

Converted cars get a bad rap most of the time and rightfully so. Most are haphazardly converted with the dashboards cut into 3 parts and masilya-ed together with a rats nest of wiring underneath. But every so often you find one that was done quite properly and with a little work done, can be a good bargain.

Such is this 1998 GC chassis Subaru Wagon. With a sloping back and roundish shape, the wagon variant of the Impreza is a pretty rare sight and a clean example such as this is a definite header turner

And when everything was fixed in the shop, we decided to put it on the Dyno and it made 210whp in AWD, which is not bad for a 20 year old car considering the latest STIs make 240whp

Mods list:

K-Sport 6 piston front brakes

Wilwood 4 piston rear calipers

STI topmount intercooler

Rear tower bar

STI spec turbo

3″ full exhaust

Fujitsubo muffler

BC Racing coilovers

Exedy clutch

STI Emblems

210whp and 188 ft-lbs torque

Toyota Hi Ace Power Up!

I recently found out that we the Philippines, are the Hi Ace capital of the world, having sold more units than any other country. I know it’s a shocker, but spend 5 minutes just looking at the flow of traffic and you will see a lot of the refrigerator shaped Hi Ace Grandia and the wider Super Grandia playing the streets.

I get the appeal, we own one and as a people/stuff/luggage/school bus transport, it makes a lot of sense. It basically maximises the available parking available per slot in every dimension.

So why power up such a utilitarian vehicle? Well for the same other reason why people come to the shop, because a more powerful car is simply a better car to drive. And when you’re hauling 10 people, that extra power is used A LOT.

The Hi Ace has either the previous generation 2.5 or 3.0 engines and getting more power is exactly the same as the Fortuner or Hilux or Innova.

First up is a full 3″ exhaust

And no, it’s not scandalously noisy, your passengers will still be able to sleep soundly as you cruise along at 100-130kph at a low 1800rpm

A front mount intercooler by itself doesn’t add any power, but when combined with the exhaust and ECU tuning, it’s worth another 8-10hp compared to the stock one. And the assumption is that most Hi Aces will spend a good part of there time on long distance drives, where the faster speeds and airflow will definitely feed the intercooler.

And of course, Speedlab ECU Power tuning to tie it all together for maximum power gain

Dotted red line: stock 80whp

Solid red line: SpeedLab tuned 127whp

Maximum power gain of 60hp and 180 ft-lbs of torque at 2000rpm. That’s some serious pulling power.

How to know if you’re really getting a custom remap tune

Remapping, reflashing, ECU Tuning, custom tuning, they all mean one and the same thing, editing the contents of the ECU to extract more power from the engine.

Poke around Facebook enough and you will come across warnings like

“How do you know you’re getting a custom tune?”

“Do you know what parameters are being changed?”

“Are they just buying a tune of the internet?”

Granted the loudest trumpeter of this is DP CHIP because they are trying to scare people into buying their obsolete product at a ridiculously high price, and can’t compete with the power gains that ECU remapping will give you.

But the points they make are pretty valid. How do you know if you’re getting a custom tune? As opposed to just buying it off the internet? At this point, I want to clarify some terms.

Custom tune – a file that is adjusted specifically for your your car, your modifications.

Live tune – A person with a laptop is doing the adjustments on the spot while the car is on the Dyno.

All live tunes are custom tunes but not all custom tunes are done live. A custom is most often emailed to the end user by a person who has the editing software. The end user must have a reader writer software as well as the obd cable to connect the car to the laptop.

Take note, a custom tune without data like air fuel ratio on a Dyno is next to useless. You simply cannot rely on a car’s internal datalog stream to tune properly. This is what the local Orange Virus guy does, he simplt reads a cars ECU, sends it to the USA, waits for a guy to modify the file and sends it back, he then loads it back to the car. No Dyno, no nothing. While this can be called a custom tune, it is nowhere the correct way to do. You the customer have no idea how much power you’re making, neither can the guy doing the uploading tell you.

If you’re “tuner” doesn’t have this kind of screen on their laptop

Or this

Walk away. He is not doing any tuning whatsoever. Other signs that you’re not getting tuned:

1. Insists on meetup to load the file – instant BS

2. Says there is no need to Dyno – also instant BS, How will you know you actually made power and not just throttle adjustment

3. Tells you to wait for tuned file, and let’s meet back after a few days

4. Does it at his home – same way a real doctor doesn’t treat you at home, neither should a tuner.

5. Uses cloned/pirated software

Alientech’s KESS is the most cloned/pirated read writer in the market. The screen above is the old version software which hasn’t been updated. If your “tuner” has this kind of screen, 99% he’s using cloned hardware and software and there is a chance that the read/write process might hang in the middle, thus turning your ecu into a paper weight.

5. Beer na Lang any bayad – why are you giving away a valuable service for free? Unless you don’t have any investment to start with. Related to item no. 4

ALL TUNERS worth their trade all insist on having the car on the Dyno while tuning, unless there really is no choice, like in the province where there is no Dyno, in which case you rely on their best judgement and experience because they have tuned a lot of cars and can accurately equate the numbers entered in the laptop to power numbers.

Let’s take this Lancer as an example of the correct way of doing things.

Before any modifications have been done, it is best and always recommended to get s baseline Dyno to see what your stock power and torque is. If you don’t know where you’re starting, how will you know what you’ve gained?

Here’s the stock numbers,

Red dotted line – Stock 116whp and 109 ft-lbs of torque

Green line – Initial tune with SpeedLab K&N intake, 133whp and 140 ft-lbs

And this is how live tuning is done, real time adjustments while the car is in the Dyno and made immediately after each Dyno run.

I know for a fact there are some “tuners” offering reflash services for as low as 8k, and obviously this is with no dyno, using fake hardware and software AND no live tuning being done. So yes you get what you pay for, you pay cheap, you get cheap.

And here’s our final Dyno chart with headers installed

Purple line – SpeedLab power package, intake, headers, tuning.

Thin red line – Stock power. As you can see there is easily 35hp gain at 3500rpm. And there is no way to find that out or even get the correct tune if it’s not done on the Dyno.

I actually take time to explain and walk you through the whole reflash process, and I give this same talk 6-7 times a week to different people in the shop, and they leave with a better Understanding of what the process is and what it entails

Camaro Borla Exhaust Custom Fabrication and Install

In a land dominated by Japanese brands, it’s a real treat to see cars like Mustangs and Canaria coming into the shop. And this 2018 example wanted a catback Exhaust done.

Lifting up the car to take a look what we’re up against, I was surprised and delighted to see 4 electronic valves that changed the opening depending on the pedal and speed, activate sound tuning if you will.

We new from the start that these 4 valves have to go back and they must go back, as we have seen other shops just simply disconnect these when they make an exhaust which is kinda stupid as it will throw a check engine light and kill off what is an arguably cool feature. Granted we did have to cut the 4 valves from the stock piping but it’s not something so terrible or permanent that we couldn’t put it back to stock if needed. Of course we got permission from the owner before doing any cutting

We chose to use Borla Pro XS mufflers for that deep sound, and still went with a quad tip setup but using oval tips as these fill up the bumper cutout much better.

This result is a meaner sounding exhaust note when you floor it but remains civilized quiet at idle because we retained the stock exhaust valves to do their job.

If you don’t mind sniffing some smoke, watching the valves open and close is a pretty cool thing

Isn’t it going to explode?

Or in Filipino“Hindi ba sasabog yan?”

There are enough people that we meet that have never driven their car hard and definitely not to redline because “baka sumabog” well I’m here to tell you that no, Hindi yan sasabog. The car is designed to shift at a little or at the redline on your tachometer, it’s designed like that an hindi yan sasabog.

Another question has to do with making power. We’ve posted enough big 50-60-70 and even 100hp gain on vehicles that we get the question, “will this reduce engine reliability?” The short answer is no. And the more persistent will ask “how can it not? You’re stressing the engine beyond it’s designed performance”

This is best answered with bullet points

1. What most people forget or don’t realize that maximum power of the engine is almost always achieved at or near redline. The numbers on the brochure and everywhere on the internet are MAXIMUM power numbers, which is only achieved with your foot to the floor. When you’re stuck in traffic or cruising NLEX at 2500-3000rpm your engine is making a fraction of the maximum, usually 20-30% only

2. When shops like us do modifications, we usually quote peak power and max power gain. Peak power is made at redline for gasoline engines and 3000 or 3500 for diesels, max power might be somewhere else like 2500rpm. All engines are overbuilt from the factory, it’s just the standard way of doing things in manufacturing. You don’t build say hammer to work only a specific number of times and then break. Plus it costs the same to over design something and to design something specific. Manufacturing wise, the cost difference between making a 1” thick hammer and a 1.5” thick hammer is negligible, so better go with the thicker design for the same cost.

3. As for the over stressing the engine with an additional 60hp, once again remember how maximum power is achieved? Full throttle. In the lifespan of your car’s 150,000km, realistically how many kilometers can you drive flat out at full throttle? You’ll be hard pressed to come up with even 500km of upak driving, and that’s 0.0033% of the mileage of your car. So no, you are not stressing the engine out. Or in easier terms to understand, that few times you take viagra to enhance your performance will not cause your dick to fall of or to stop functioning well into your 70s

Turbocharging the Toyota Vios 1.5L

The little car that gets boost and does it very well.

Toyota’s best selling small car, the Vios is big in sales numbers and does an excellent job in A to B chores, Grab duties and an overall very good first car. What’s not so great is in the power department, and it definitely won’t win any stoplight races against say, a 98 Civic SiR. But then again, that’s what turbocharging is for right? So here’s how we do it.

1. Take out the bumper, grill, stock airbox, exhaust manifold, horns, lights etc etc so we have a clean slate to work with

2. “Can I put an intercooler on my non-turbo car?” Has got to be the most asked question and one of the dumbest on the Internet. Most people would want a turbo just to be able to show off the intercooler in front and for this reason, we’re doing this step first because ya know, looks are a priority.

3. Here’s the turbocharger. This is one of our old china made T25 sized turbos which we rebuilt the center cartridge with stronger bearings because this is the weak point of these turbos, it’s either a pass or fail the second the engine starts up, and it’s a pain in the ass to swap out once everything is in place so we take the extra step to make sure this sucker will last.

4. Welded turbo manifold. Unlike most manifolds that you see on the internet with the curvy stainless steel tubing, we chose thick iron pipe for strength and it will never ever crack under heat, even if it isn’t so pretty.

5. Turbo and manifold now married. This is also the reason that if you have performance headers, you have to take it out and sell them because this will sit in its place.

6. It’s a shame that the Vios as a backwards facing exhaust, hence you can’t really see the turbo

7. The intercooler is mounted here behind the bumper support

8. This is the aluminum pipes that leads to the throttle which is in front of the engine.

9. Here’s a closer look at the bracket the holds the intercooler in place.

10. This is the turbo discharge pipe. There are two ways to route this, either above the engine like what he have here, or below, for that more sleeper look, it actually doesn’t matter as it doesn’t affect performance.

11. All our turbo builds use a K&N filter. This is important that no stray dirt particles get sucked into the turbo.

12. “Can I put a blow off valve on my non-turbo car?” Is the second dumbest question on the internet. And like the intercooler, people will actually get a turbo setup just for the sound. On this Vios, the blow off valve is located somewhat in the bottom half as that’s the best location, which has to be at least 1 foot away from the throttle. Sorry, no showing off to your car club friends when you open the engine, but hey you get that passheewwww sound.

13. And here’s the completed turbo installation. The aluminum pipe can be in any color you want but we went with an all black setup, ya know, for that sleeper look.

14. The stock bumper fits perfectly without any cutting needed. The generations after this Vios actually have even more room behind the bumper as they have grown in size.

15. All done and ready to be tuned. For this we use Unichip because well, it’s simply the best solution for the job. Minimal wiring and it has the ability to Reference a variety of input signals for fuel enrichment, such as throttle position, MAF reading or actual boost, so control the additional 5th injector setup.

16. And the numbers are in! Our 1.5L AT Vios makes 77whp and 78 ft-lbs torque in stock form. Turbocharging it got us an additional 60hp and 63 ft-lbs of torque for a total of 138whp and 141 ft-lbs torque, almost double the stock numbers, at 7psi of boost.

Now a lot of people will tell you that turbocharging will shorten the life of your engine. The answer is both yes and no, and it depends. Here’s why.

Every engine on the planet is overbuilt to some extent, that’s just the way things are done, the same way that screwdriver is overbuilt to not twist even Superman twists it. Engines normally can take 50-70% on top of their stock power rating with no problems, and this is what we follow as a rule if thumb. Of course some engines are built better than others. We know for a fact that the 1.5L Vios engine can take much more than the 60hp we added but we won’t risk the same power gain with a Kia engine.

We also don’t accept any turbo install with engines that have high mileage already, meaning over 100,000km and this is the “will shorten your engine life” comes from. Same way you don’t ask grandpa to do a 10km marathon

So it depends on how well you take care of the car and what’s the mileage and condition. Generally 40-60k kilometer mileage is ok for turbocharging, and your car is certainly out of warranty by that time.

Oh and this whole article is applicable up to the 3rd Generation Vios because the engine is exactly the same from 2004 up to 2016 and it’s also exactly the same for the 1.3L engine